Tango Van - 1972 westy..

1911 type 4
twin dual 40's empi hmpx carbs
mild cam
1700 gearbox

glad its sorted, you really need that box dude, mine is totally stock and will do over 80. maybe twin 40's for me one day.....

I don't understand .....


How come my 1641 ,standard cam and twin carb engine gives me 67 bhp at the wheels?

neither do I....

will scan the print out in a bit. might reveal something..or not.


heads are standard. i have a slight exhaust leak on one head where it doesn't quite fit up properly, but runs ok.

i would of thought (i'm no expert) that a cammed 1911 ......would be far more powerful than a 1641 ,in standard form ....


you must of mis read the dyno read out dude

Here's the readout:

replaced the brake vac servo hoses today!

were looking very worn and had become solid. I reckon they'd not been changed ever..

Cleaned and checked the non return valve while I was there also..

......


next job is to check the servo bellows ...

nomates wrote:

I don't understand .....


How come my 1641 ,standard cam and twin carb engine gives me 67 bhp at the wheels?

surely thats 67 at the flywheel nomates????

we asked the guy at the time .....mr gordo was with me altho' I can't find the dyno print out at the moment

it's going to go back to interpro on tues.

it's costing me around £50-60 a week to run to South Bristol (40miles a day)

didn't have throttle opening full when pedal to the metal...

also,

the idle set up is weird.

left hand carb looks normal. a few turns on the screw

right hand carb (1&2) has idle screw in loads.. must be open a fair bit.
Jason also said he had to richen that carb up loads to get it to run smooth.

this was the side that had/has the popping in the carb

is this normal or is there a cause ?

Sorted. (as much as empi carbs will allow)

running way better than beforehand. flew back down the m5 ::

points had closed up. new ones in and reset.
valves rechecked.
carbs off:
float pin loose on rh carb. sorted.
swarf in thread of main jet LH carb: sorted jet seated all the way in
both drawing 6n of air on each side.
return spring rh carb drilled and relocated to give better tension
all timing rechecked and rebalanced carbs etc.
fueling checked throughout the rev range.
full throttle now.
slight leak on base of manifold to head. will look at sometime. only very minor.
front two cylinders down on compression (120) compared to the back two (140). weird. might settle down.
no 1 is still popping in the carb: maybe due to above compression issue. will recheck in a couple of weeks.
exhaust causing slight backfire when throttle released.
rolling road tested and road tested over two days.

overall, a really thorough check up on it, (8hrs work in all)

recommendations: get some dells or webers, as empi are crap! (wish I had from the start as cost me more in trying to sort these out)

Best thing of all is.....






only cost me a set of points!

£4.30

all done FOC as goodwill. Fantastic!!

get some dells on their, the sound of them is enough to put a smile on anyones face,

Well, got some twin italian webber 40's being built up by Chris Sluce at the moment, and then will be fitted and rolling road tuned by him.

Club sticker in .. at last!
New sliding door middle hinge fitted after original broke.
Replaced 1/4 light and 3/4 rear side window with a full size one piece glass - now water tight and more secure.

Re-spraying the bumpers this week, as not happy with the finish on the white. in primer now, and top coats and lacquer to go on.

Rear bumper first.. as more marks from exhaust and oil etc..
White primer on:


Naked rear...

Rear bumper got the top coats on this afternoon. Will flat back and spray on lacquer in the morning..

Then I gotta do the front bumper! Should be ready in time for cttp

Update:
topcoat flattened back and two coats of clear lacquer applied.


Fan housing re-sprayed


Exhaust cleaned and polished






All done:

good work mate, roll on cttp!!

very nice


cttp >>>>

Update: just got van back on Friday last week in time for Bristol show!

Front bumper re-sprayed now to match rear.

Webber twin 40's now fitted, jetted and tuned. (thx Chris Sluce!)

Just need to fiddle with the accelerator pedal linkage to allow it to get past 3/4 throttle.

need to sort out electric drain still: moved all additions to the standard system to the leisure batt at the mo. still no difference.. maybe regulator?

use a multi meter on the fuse box .......this will tell you whats drawng current

Sorted I think.

Replaced 38yr old regulator for a new solid state unit.

Ran van last on Sat and then it started fine tonight. Checked the volts etc on the batt, and it's holding charge fine. Alternator putting out 14.3 volts, so all good now!

New side step fitted !

Got a couple of inches clearance still and caught no speed bumps around Weston today.



Cheers WizBiz for giving a hand cutting it to fit

(Why does it always rain when I have any jobs to do on the van??)

Stripped and sanded ply.
Cleaned all the fixtures.

Varnished ply with 3 coats to seal it.

Applied a selection of posters and adverts and varnished over them for 4 coats.
new 1" thick fireproof foam and then re-trimed with leatherette (matching to door cards etc).
Put all back together and then fitted back into van - first time in 9 years!

First up:
Working out the wiring and what does what: with a circuit schematic of the net and a tester..

Faced with a connector block


Cut it off and Split this into two circuits:
1: heater controls: main pier in and earth then all the small leads are to the switch from the heater control/thermostat (located under the seat)


2: backrest motor control (via a switch on the side: which just reverses polarity to the two motors...much simpler to work out!!!!)


The backrest adjustment all tested and worked fine, no further mods needed and just needed power in and an earth.

However, the heating was a bit more complex, and still needs a correct DPDT momentary on/off/on2/off switch to fully activate both temps
Have so far got power in and earth on main circuit, via a master on/off switch; which I modified the side control panel on both seats to accept another switch. Made sure that I used and LED on switch, so I can see if it's been left on, don't want to kill the battery!
Tried to make it look as neat as possible:


Then wired the heater control wiring to a three way toggle switch for the moment. Annoying, as each function needs the switch to be returned to Off position. So far have: low heat continuous till temp reached, then goes into pulse mode. Them have hi heat pulse mode only. Need to get hi heat continuous the pulse...
Anyway, that's still a jumble of wires that needs to be made good...

But it works for now!
Looking for correct switches, or even Porsche ones, just not at Porsche prices!

All done on father-in-laws driv, and another reason for not going any lower! (side step had 2.5cm clearance with no-one in the van)



Passenger side all done, and tested on the mrs
Finish drivers seat tomoz and also replace drivers winder mech that broke on the A30.

Oh yeah, all wiring done with correct gauge/amp rated wire and inline fuse under each seat, as well as through a separate fuse box etc off the leisure battery circuit just in case! Lol

I'm loving the refurbished bunk, those seats however are the dogs wotsits