71 Early Bay (formerly known as Superdry)

if I were going to use heat exchangers, I would fit the CSP ones, loads more find than the usaul repops.

What Al said - they look much better quality when I had a look at volksworld. If the van's a keeper its worth it. (they even do big bore ones if you are still planning a faster motor scoops)

Orders from M7 and JK arrived today.


Just got to buy an M10 tap now and I can get on with getting the guides out. Need to crack on.

It's like santas been again.....

Need to buy an M10 tap this evening on the way home to get those damn guides out.

Got some taps so we're back on course

Should be picking up the metal for the chassis and engine bar notches tomorrow morning.

Decided I was going to have a pop at doing the valve guides myself rather than farm it out;-

Both heads were coked up so the first job was to clean them up.


Bit of wire brushing and some elbow grease.


Now to get those guides out.


Still had the guide seals in situ, quite unusually!


Double nutted to get the rocker assembly studs out.


Gave me a bit more space


Threaded the guides (although my tap was crap so I popped up to Nomates and he sorted me out, so to speak).




Put a bolt in to the newly cut thread.




Flip the heads over and you can see the bottom of the bolt that's been wound in.


Then using an old valve in the guide, tap the valve against the bolt to knock the guide out.


Needed a drift for the inlet valve guides as they seem to a smaller dia.
Thanks again to Nomates and his lathe.


Replace the old valve with the drift and twat it!


Managed to get them all out. And as you can see, the inlet and exhaust guides are definitely different sizes. I'll have to call Machine7 tomorrow to return 4 of the guides and see if they have the correct size in stock.


Had a couple of issues though. Had to use a socket as well on the end of the drift to push out a guide, however, I didn't realise it had made contact with the valve face.


And also managed to peen a bit of the guide over too.



So. I may have written off one of the heads with the damage to the valve face and the guide hole. Going to take it somewhere to see if it is salvageable.

Arse, still, a lesson learned for next time. Get some longer drifts made up.

I'm sure the damage is repairable. Have a New Valve Seat fitted or re-cut and then run a honing? tool through the peened guide.

Was stage was the damage done?
Was it the first guide removed (my first thoughts) or one of the other seven.

Bet you don't make that mistake again, easily done scoops.

Did your valves have stem seals? Not seen those before on a VW head.

The inlets had seals but the exhausts didn't.
Just found out that Mexican 043 heads have 30 mm exhaust valves with a thicker stem than the inlet valve
Vw 040 heads ( more common ) have matching stem sizes and 32 x34 mm valves.
I'll get on the blower to Machine7 in the morning and see if I can swap out in inlet valves and guides.

It was one of the first ones I did as the exhaust ones seemed easier as Nomates had been able to run an M10 tap through them but inlet stem was thinner.

All goes in to the 'lessons learned' bit doesn't it?

Just been back out and checked my valves. A quick measure with a rule (the batteries have died in my vernier) and my inlets are 33mm dia and the exhausts are 30mm.

After some other research it has been suggested that these may run warmer that others due to the smaller sized exhaust valve.

I'm going to pop the heads off the 1641 I have here to see what is fitted to that one and maybe fit them if they are 041s.

I'll get the 043's redone and punt them on.

That's a job for Wed's night I think.

how's the heads / engine coming along scoops

Kind of lost my mojo a bit but need to crack on.
Think the heads are toast, or even if they're not the guides are a bitch to source.
I'm planning on going out and working on it on Wednesday night to strip the heads off the 1641 to see if I can use them on there.

why do you say the heads are toast ? Just out of interest. are they cracked or anything ?

not cracked, they have been "Scoops'd"

Dinked one of the valve seats and also dinked one of the valve guide holes

Had an hour or two this afternoon so thought I'd make a start on cleaning up the engine bay.
Started off with this....


Bit of Gunk, then a rinse with a sponge and finally a wipe down and it was starting to look better.





It needs redoing, then a bit of T-Cut and a polish next. Glad that the OG paint comes up that well.

Back out for a couple of hours to get the initial clean of the engine bay done.



On to the 'offside' of the bay, getting it cleaned up, first with Gunk, then a wash down with some bodywork shampoo and a wipe over with paper towel.



Starting to look better.






My other little task was to drag out the 1641 from under the bench and pop one of the covers off to see what heads are fitted.



As you can see, these are 040's. That leaves me with a decision.
I can either leave them in situ, fit the ratio rockers and IDF's, or to pull them off the 1641, replace them with 041's (with slightly larger inlet valves) and then put these 040's on to the 1584 (to replace the 043's for which I simply cannot find any replacement valve guides).

What advantage will the slight increase in inlet valve dia give me?

Spec will be

1641cc engine, Engle 100 cam, 1.25/1 ratio rockers, twin 36 IDF's, Pertronix igntion and VS exhaust.

My choice is;- fit a pair of 041's to this engine, or to leave as is, and buy a second hand pair of heads to fit the other engine so I can sell it as a complete long block. Any comments etc welcomed.

I bought a replacement battery tray but only plan to replace the area that shows the corrosion as I don't want to burn the external paint if at all possible.



Again, any comments or suggestions are welcomed.

Anybody able to do this little but of welding want to earn some beer tokens? Let me know.

Got the 1641 on to the engine stand with a bunk up from Tango


Cleaned up and then bolted up the engine support bar so I could mock it up with the exhaust to mark up where I want to put the notches in the bar.



I'm thinking I'll have clearance for an In/Out oil pump cover to run the external filter under the n/s battery tray


Got the VS on there.


The flanges had previously been ground down but I"m going to get the support bar notched to give more room when fitting the exhaust when it comes to it.





Notch positions and size marked on with a Sharpie.

Get grinding then...

Was a bit late tonight

Had a quick dabble this evening. Only had an hour out there as had some other stuff to do.

Decided to mock up the oil pump cover to see if the moustache bar required any modification.
I have two different types and tried this one first.


It's pretty blooming close to the moustache bar!




But there's a bit of meat here that can be clearanced. This is simply a spacer.


I then popped the two way cover off and replaced it with this outlet type and popped on a braided hose that I have ready for the job.




The next problem was that the oil pipe sits below the level of the engine bar.


Sitting vertical






No way I can run this, it'd get torn off the first time I drop around Weston!


Sits better at this height, but I think I'd have to mount a skid plate underneath it.






Just looking at ideas at the moment so I can mock things up. Once I know what set up I'm going to go with I can get the moustache bar modded, then powder coated.

The engine can then be properly cleaned up and I can also dry fit the tinware before that gets powder coated too.

I don't really know a great deal about air cooled engines, do you need an external oil cooler?
The oil has to get to a certain temp to perform at its best, will the mods you've done/planning make it run that much hotter.

Not running a cooler Dude, just an external filter